oil pump

The oil pump, pumps the oil to all the parts of the engine that need lubrication. eg bearings, cylinder head, cylinder/pistons. The oil pump consists of two gears that create a suction as they turn that sucks up the oil in the sump through the pick up then they push the oil through the filter and oil gallery that supplies all the moving parts that need oil. The oil pump is a vital component in the engine, if the engine has no oil it will seize. The oil in a engine also works as a coolant.


the oil pump pumps the oil around the engine to all of the vital parts that need lubrication and and cooling. as you can see the oil pump has two gears that rotate on each other. when they do this they suck oil up from the sump and force it through the passages in the block to important components like the pistons and cylinder head.



oil pump testing

visual inspection: first i visually inspected all of the parts in the oil pump to see if there are any cracks, dents, chips or any unusual wear and tear.
warp: to test warp i used a straight edge placed on top and used a feeler gauge to measure the gap and compared to manufacturers specifications
measuring clearances: using a feeler gauge i measured the clearances between the two gears and compared to manufacturers specifications

reflection: the measurements were all within manufacturers specifications which means the oil pump doesnt need to be replaced

cooling system

the engine cooling system uses a liquid containing anti freeze and a rut inhibitor. the cooing system uses anti freeze because it can go to very low temperatures without freezing and can handle extremely high temperatures that the engine produces. the cooling system also uses the rust inhibitor to prevent any rust from causing when the metal is wet and left for long periods of time. the combined liquid is pumped around the the engine block to keep it at a cool consistent operating temperature.

cooling system tests 

coolant testing: to test the coolant we use a hydrometer by filling it up around about 66% so the hydrometer is floating and can give a reading. compare to manufacturers specifications and replace coolant if it is not within specifications
thermostat: to test the thermostat we need to heat it up to the manufacturers specifications and see if it opens up and would allow coolant to pass through to the radiator
pressure testing: pressure testing is used to check the cooling system for leaks by pressurizing the coolant with air. If there is a leak the pressure will go down over time causing  the gauge will go down

reflection: after doing all of these tests we found that the coolant system was working well and was working efficiently.

short block

the short block is the main part of the engine. everything is connected to it. engine block is usually made of cast iron or aluminium.the block has been cast and machined to the perfect size and shape for the cylinders to reduce engine wear and increase its efficiency. the block contains many passages for oil which lubricates different parts and for water to cool the engine down.

dis assembly of the short block
place all bolts and parts in a labeled container

1. drain all oil from engine
2. remove cylinder head and sump
3. remove oil pick up and filter
4. remove big end bolts
5. remove big end and take out pistons (stamp the pistons and big end with the cylinder number so that you know which piston goes in which cylinder and which way the piston is facing)
6. remove piston rings and oil scarper rings (place with correct piston)
7. remove big end bearings and place with correct piston
8. remove the crankshaft holders
9. remove crankshaft and thrust bearings

short block tests

pistons:
 piston skirt size: using a micrometer measure the piston skirt and compare with manufacturers specifications
connecting rod twist/bend: visually inspect the con rods to see if they are bend or twisted. if they are they may need to be replaced
piston ring end gap: compress piston ring inside cylinder and press it down using the piston. using a feeler gauge measure the gap and compare to manufacturers specifications. repeat for all piston rings (if you have your engine apart you may want to replace the piston rings because it will normally be along time before you will have the engine apart and replacing piston rings can be very costly if you have to do it later on down the track)
crankshaft:
 testing crankshaft journals: measure the big end journals in two places and record findings then rotate the crankshaft 90degrees and measure the same two places and compare with manufacturers specifications for taper and ovality
crankshaft deflection: place the crankshaft on v blocks and use a dti gauge to measure runout on the main bearings and compare to manufacturers specifications
block:
cylinder bore: measure the cylinder bore at three different heights and record findings, twist the bore gauge 90degrees and measure the same three heights compare these findings to the manufacturers specifications for taper and ovality
warping in the block: to measure this we use a straight edge placed on different sections of the block and used a light to see if there was any gap. if it looked like there was a gap we used a feeler gauge to test the measurements of the gap. if the measurements were larger than those specified by the manufacturer then you will need to have the block skimmed or replaced.

re assembly of the short block

1. place the crankshaft and thrust bearings in the right places
2. place the main bearing holders on and screw bolts finger tight
3. put piston rings back on the pistons
4. place piston 1 in cylinder 1 and using a piston ring compressor push the piston into place (make sure the big end bearing is in the right place before putting the piston in
5. screw the bolts holding the piston in finger tight
6. do the same for all pistons
7. rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything spins freely (if it does not spin freely then you will need to source the problem. it could be a piston that does not fit properly or that something is in the wrong pace)
8. using a torque wrench tighten up the main bearings to the manufacturers specifications
9.  rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything spins freely
10.  using a torque wrench tighten up the big end bearings to the manufacturers specifications
11.  rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything spins freely
12. attach the oil pick up and filter
13. put the sump and cylinder head back on
14. time the engine.
15. rotate the engine so cylinder 1 is on the combustion stroke at top dead center
16. make sure the valves are in the correct place for cylinder 1 top dead center firing
17. put cambelt on
18. tighten up the tensioner so the cambelt is on tight
19. adjust the distributor so that it in cylinder 1 firing

cylinder head

The cylinder head covers the top of the cylinder. The head and the gasket seals the cylinder so that the piston can compress the air fuel mixture. The cylinder head contains the cam shaft that runs the distributor and the cams on the shaft push the rockers that push the valves open. The intake valves open to allow the fuel into the cylinder and the exhaust valves open the cylinder to let the exhaust fumes out. when both valves are closed the cylinder should be air tight.


head dis assembly sohc engine
place all bolts and parts in a labeled container

1. remove rocker cover bolts and remove rocker cover.
2. remove head bolts and take the cylinder head off of the engine. (when removing these bolts take them off in a spiral order starting at cylinder 1 exhaust rocker arm then cylinder 1 intake rocker arm, cylinder 4 intake, cylinder 4 exhaust, cylinder 2 exhaust, cylinder 2 intake, cylinder 3 intake and cylinder 3 exhaust)
3. remove rocker arm bolts and take of rocker arms. (when removing these bolts take them off in a spiral order starting at cylinder 1 exhaust rocker arm then cylinder 1 intake rocker arm, cylinder 4 intake, cylinder 4 exhaust, cylinder 2 exhaust, cylinder 2 intake, cylinder 3 intake and cylinder 3 exhaust)
4. remove camshaft sprocket.
5. slide camshaft out of cylinder head.
6. using a valve clamp compress valves and remove valve keepers at the top of the valve stems.
7. repeat for the remaining valves. 

 cylinder head tests

valves:
valve stem ovality: to test valve stem ovality use a micrometer and measure at three different points along the valve stem compare these measurements withe the manufactures specifications to see if you need to replace the valves
camshaft: to measured the camshaft journals and came lobes using a micrometer and checking that the measurements are correct according to the specifications. we also measured the camshaft end play using a dti gauge that was attached to the end of the cylinder head.
cylinder head: we used a straight edge to test the warp in the cylinder head. to do this we used a straight edge placed on different sections of the cylinder head and used a light to see if there was any gap. if it looked like there was a gap we used a feeler gauge to test the measurements of the gap. if the measurements were larger than those specified by the manufacturer the you will need to have the cylinder head skimmed or replaced.

re assembly of the cylinder head

1. put valves back in the correct places.
2. place the valve springs on top of the valve.
3. using the valve clamp compress the valve and put the valve keepers back in place.
4. replace all valves the same way.
5. slide the camshaft back into place (make sure it is not back to front)
6. attach camshaft sprocket and bolt in place
7. place the correct rocker arms in the right place
8. place the rocker arm bolts in the correct place and make them finger tight
9. using a torque wrench tighten the rocker arm bolts to specifications in the order c3 e, c3 i, c2 i, c2 e, c4 e, c4 i, c1 i and c1 e
10. place the cylinder head back on the cylinder block (make sure the head gasket is in the right place and that the head is not back to front)
11. replace the head bolts.
12. using a torque wrench and manufacturers specifications torque the bolts in order c3 e, c3 i, c2 i, c2 e, c4 e, c4 i, c1 i and c1 e
13. you now need to set the clearance between the rocker arms and the valves
14. set cylinder 1 and 4 at top dead center. have cylinder 1 on the firing stroke to set the clearance for cylinder 4 and vice versa.
15. place a feeler gauge under the exhaust rocker arm and tighten screw so that the clearance is set to the manufactures specifications. do the same for the intake rocker arm.
16. set up for the next cylinder and repeat the steps.
17. place the rocker cover on top of the cylinder head. (make sure you have the rocker gasket in the right place)
18. place bolts in top and tighten  

remember if you need to replace any parts in the cylinder head take the part that needs replacing with you to make sure that what you are replacing it with is the right part, if in doubt don't waste a lot of money on a part that may or may not fit.